
The story of my visit to adidas Village, in Portland, Oregon, as part
of the prize for the KicksGuide, April Artist Series, T-Mac 4 design contest
by Ryan Holler
I came
across Artist Series last February. I think Pep Martens had already been
declared the winner of the Lebron James contest, and the deadline was
very near for the March Yao Ming competition. I wanted to enter, but I
had a mountain of freelance work which would keep me from developing a
design in time. A couple days later I read on KicksGuide that, "adidas
will fly the winner of the T-Mac 4 contest to Orlando to meet Tracy McGrady
in person and present his/her winning design to a team of adidas designers".
That news heightened my excitement over the decision I had already made
to send submit a design, though I figured winning was a long shot.
I submitted
my design for the April Artist Series T-Mac 4 competition with high expectations.
My goal was to make the finals and have my design shown. That's it. I
just wanted to see what others thought of my work.
It had
been several years since I'd even considered my potential as a shoe designer.
I've been a shoehead since, probably, 6th or 7th grade. My two main hobbies
were basketball and art. Where better do those two subjects converge than
in hoops footwear? I played varsity basketball through junior college,
and chose art as my major. Though I enjoyed painting and illustration,
athletic footwear design was what I most wanted to do.
Just before
graduating from Hendrix College, with a Bachelors in art, I applied to
Auburn University to study Industrial Design. With no spots open for the
Fall semester, I continued to beg for any spot that might open second
semester. A spot opened, and I was reluctantly accepted. I say "reluctantly"
because they warned me it would be very difficult to start then without
the experience of first semester. I didn't listen. I drove 500 miles to
start second term classes. After two weeks I caved under the pressure
of my own unpreparedness and a couple issues of a more personal nature.
Though
I never had any real regrets about that decision, I have occasionally
considered the different path my life might have taken had I listened
to that advice, and waited until the following fall to enroll. But my
eventual decision to go into graphic design has proven to be a good one.
I'm currently Senior Graphic Artist in the equipment division of Snap-on,
globally accepted as maker of the finest hand and power tools.
When I
started sketching my T-Mac design it was like tapping into an old dream.
Before the T-Mac 4 contest, I had not sketched a shoe, even for fun, in
probably seven years. And though I use a computer several hours a day,
I'd never rendered a shoe design on one. So waking up one April
morning to find the design not only posted among the finalists (KG published
them all at once back then), but also leading in votes, was a huge surprise.
Perhaps the most fun part of the moment was waking up my wife to show
her, because I had secretly designed and rendered the shoe without her
knowing about it.
Watching
the vote totals rise all month was a lot of fun. I'm not sure I've seen
the talk on the chat board become so heated as it did in April. But when
this trip became surreal was when I answered the phone one day to hear
"Hello, this is Melanie Blehm, from adidas. Congratulations on winning
the contest. We want to bring you to Portland to meet our footwear design
team." What?! I knew I was going to meet T-Mac and one or two people
from adidas, but finding out that I was actually going to adidas Village
and meeting the whole design team was totally unexpected, and very exciting.
A couple
days before my departure Melanie called again to wrap up details. As we
talked, she mentioned that another one of the Artist Series contestants
would be there too. Surprised, I asked who. She said, "His name is
Zenith." I said,"That's great! I already know him." That
was quite a coincidence, since Zenith was the only other contestant I'd
communicated with outside the chat board. I was excited for him because
I knew he was just finishing industrial design school and was looking
for work, and that the trip to Portland could be a great experience for
him.
Zenith
and I arrived at the hotel about an hour apart. From Zenith's emails and
nutty posts on KicksGuide Chat, I expected a little hyper dude. To my
surprise he was very laid back. But then again, he could have just been
tired. All he could talk about was how hungry he was. I was too, so we
decided to walk to a 7-11 for eats. It had to be a mile away. While walking,
we talked about school, sports, faith, life in Ontario (him), life in
Arkansas (me), and of course, kicks. Back at the hotel, we ate
and checked out Zenith's portfolio, with which I was very impressed. It
was well past midnight, so I decided to head back to my room for a little
rest since adidas was sending a car to pick us up at 8 A.M.
Upon arrival
at adidas Village, I couldn't help but notice how the architecture looked
so "adidas". No picture I could have taken would be as good
as one from the adidas-salomon website, so just
check it out there. (Footwear Design is in the nearest of the 6 buildings.)

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| adidas
Footwear Design Department. Yes, that's a cardboard cutout of Kobe
Bryant leaning against the window. Go figure. |
Zenith
feeling the love in Tracy's love seat. It actually looks more like
a chair when chair when T-Mac sits in it. |

The first
person Zenith and I met was Melanie. It was nice to finally put a face
with the voice. She introduced us to Todd Rolak, a Footwear Designer who
would be our host. While we were in an office where we would store our
stuff (Zenith's backpack and my portfolio), a tall grey-haired man unexpectedly
walked in. Todd introduced him as "Erich", and tells him that
Zenith and I are shoe design contest winners. Erich had a distinct German
accent, so I figured he was likely from the adidas "mothership."
After brief small-talk we left the office. Todd told us that we'd just
met Erich
Stamminger, adidas Head of Global Marketing and President/CEO of adidas
America, whose visits to that wing of the building are very rare.
Our chances of running into him there were "slim and none",
Todd said.
Right
away, Todd took us to Footwear Design. I asked him if I could take my
camera with me to help document the visit for KicksGuide. He said "sure",
and that we could take photos at will, and that he'd let us know before
we entered a no-photo area. I was surprised by the freedom were were allowed
with our cameras. We quickly met all the footwear designers, who were
all friendly. It seemed to be a very "team" environment. Their
work spaces were only separated by cubicles barely taller than their desks.
Shoe designs, both hand- and computer-rendered, as well as sample shoes
in all colors lying around everywhere. But I didn't notice any obvious
indications of which designers were responsible for which designs.

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| Size
9 samples in all colorways abounded throughout the adidas Footwear
Design Department. Notice the the white/red shoe sample from the upcoming
Team T-Mac line. |
Garnett's
shoe in a beige/brown colorway which I was told would will be sold
as a Footlocker exclusive. |

The only
exception to that was when we met Senior Designer Kyle Pulli. As we talked,
it became obvious that he had much to do with the new T-Mac 4. He said
it employed a new laceless technology called Hug, and that it was still
under wraps (it was mid-May and there were no samples or renderings within
view). I mentioned that I'd seen a photo of it on the NikeTalk website.
But he explained that that the photo is a bit misleading because it was
a kid size, which didn't incorporate "Hug", the most unique
feature of the adult version. I was a little disappointed at that point
because I had hoped to get to see the real T-Mac 4. But I held out hope,
for the tour had just begun.
We proceeded
to the other side of the building to meet a couple guys who turn finished
design renderings into 3-D forms using design program called FreeFormTM.
Zenith and I were allowed to tinker with the software, which was accompanied
by a very interesting piece of hardware. It was a stylus suspended in
air by a robotic arm. On the screen it could be turned into any type of
"virtual" tool to be used to model a 3-D form — just like
working with clay. When a shoe rendering is completed, the "print"
command actually produces a hard synthetic 3-D shoe model. This free-form
technology has allowed 2 guys to gradually replace a much larger group
who used to work in real clay.


Next,
Todd took us across the street. This building included everything from
the shop where patterns for cutting leather and other shoe materials are
made, to where the rubber outsoles are molded and the sample shoes assembled.
Here, all shoes are sampled in size 9 before going into mass production.
Todd revealed that his shoe size is... you guessed it... "9",
which has allowed him to amass a ridiculous collection of sneakers, many
in colorways never put into production.
adidas
uses its own unique last design. These lasts were piled into bins by the
hundreds, and we were not allowed to photograph them. We did, however,
get to photograph some of the funnier things in this area — namely,
shoes and plaster foot molds of some of the adidas athletes. I've always
thought that Antoine Walker was an oddly built athlete. His foot is no
exception — it's just plain ugly. There was also a huge running
shoe made for Dikembe Mutombo when he was with adidas. I took a picture
of Zenith goofing with it.

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| Patterns
being cut prior to sample shoe construction |
Antoine
Walker foot mold |
Zenith
Chance shows the freakish contract between the size of his own head
and Dikembe Mutombo's foot. |

One of
the more interesting things we learned here was that shoes are not custom
made for the foot of even the most high profile athletes. A plaster sample
of the athlete's foot is sometimes used for figuring out his optimum size,
but almost never for custom building a shoe. The only exception is when
an athlete might have an extreme orthopedic condition caused by injury
or foot malformation.
Next we
moved on to a department which appeared similar to a shoe store —
seemingly a production-meets-marketing sort of area. There were apparel
racks and many styles and colorways of shoes displayed on a wall. A few
employees were buzzing around mixing and matching shoes and apparel. It
was here that I saw it — the white/black colorway, just like the
early kid's shoe photo I'd seen on the internet. Only this one had what
appeared to be a chunky contraption in the heel area. About 2 seconds
after I picked it up, Todd politely removed it from my hand, saying, "Sorry,
I'll take that." As he returned it to it's spot and led us out of
the room the following conversation ensued...
Todd:
"Let's go somewhere else."
Me: "I suppose I can't take a picture
of that, huh?"
Todd: "Take a picture of what?"
Me: "That shoe"
Todd: "What shoe?"
Me: "The one back there."
Todd: "Back where?"
Me: "Okay."
Zenith: (laughter)
So, just
for the record (and Todd's neck), we DID NOT PHOTOGRAPH THE T-MAC
4 during our visit.
We then
went to the oval-shaped facility which houses a workout area and basketball
court. Judging from the enormous curtain-like poster hanging on one side
of the court, one might have thought that it was T-Mac's personal gym.
Implanted in the court near the top of the key was an interesting device
used for measuring the physics of a footstrike while running downcourt.
That was very interesting, but I was soon distracted by a basketball.
I went to shoot baskets as Zenith and Todd stood courtside and talked.
I think they were a bit afraid to join me because I was on fire.
Just as I was about to demand that they put up a giant poster of me beside
T-Mac, Todd said it was time to go back.

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| Zenith
and I pose for a photo in front of T-Mac's "NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE"
poster. |
A
device used to measure footstrike in R & D |
Money!
I was not able to persuade adidas to add my poster to those in the
gym despite more than proving myself as a dead-eye gunner. |

Todd had
recently returned to adidas after leaving a few years back. During his
time away he worked for Columbia Sportswear and And1, both also based
in Portland, in addition to spending a brief time with Sketchers, based
in L.A. Such a career, I learned, is fairly common. Todd described shoe
business at the design level as "incestuous", in reference to
the frequency of designers moving from one company to another. I asked,
"Do the companies not worry about the exchange of inside information
in those situations?" Todd basically said a company's technologies
are patented, so that information couldn't be used even if possessed by
another company. He explained that, in terms of design, each of the top
companies have their own design philosophy, and a designer works within
that philosophy. For example, you can take the swooshes and stripes off
of most Nike and adidas shoes and still tell which company produced them,
much in the way you can tell the origin of an American, German, or Japanese
vehicle by style alone, and without visible branding.
Zenith
at one point asked Todd what was the most gratifying moment in his career.
He said it was last year when he was at home watching an NBA game in which
6 of the 10 players on the floor were wearing either the 2 Chi or the
Chosen 1, both of which he designed while with And1.
As time
approached noon, we met back up with the rest of the footwear designers
and walked to the village cafeteria for lunch. This place was abuzz with
adidas employees. Most looked young, hip, and athletic, while styles of
dress were from casual/athletic to dress/casual.
Lunch
was good, but the conversation was great. I sat across from Kyle, who
seemed to be not so much a shoehead as you might expect, but more a student
(still) of design in general. I could tell he really follows car design.
While the subjects of conversation ranged well away from shoe design and
sports, I made it a point to try to steer the chat back around to the
T-Mac 4. I was glad I did, as Kyle began to share some of the thought
process behind the new shoe, including the marketing side of things.

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| Lunch
with the adidas Footwear Design team. Clockwise from bottom left:
Zenith Chance, Kyle Pulli, Cheng Kue, Matt Schmunk, Todd Rolak, Sam
Rathburn, myself, Durron Richard and Mykel Rodarte |

The process
started with the examining evolution-based approach to the first 3 T-Mac
models, which focused much more on cosmetic evolution than on a performance-based
technology. They knew that had to change. Kyle admitted that there was
disappointment that the T-Mac 3, despite good sales, had so quickly hit
the "sale bin" on the retail front. They felt that since Tracy
McGrady had become, to adidas, the closest thing to what Jordan once was
to Nike, that he deserved a shoe which not only pushed the style envelope,
but also served as a platform for newest performance-based technology
adidas had to offer. In addition, they felt that T-Mac had achieved a
marketability status by which consumers expected his signature shoe to
exceed, in both performance and style, those in the $80-$90 price range,
which his previous 3 models had been.
Kyle said
adidas started working in 2001 on ways to use a ski-boot closure system
on a court shoe. Once they arrived with a workable closure design, which
they named "Hug", they pitched the idea to Tracy. He loved it.
That's when the project was turned over the Kyle, who had to fold the
technology into a design that suited T-Mac's style. Kyle said Tracy is
very trusting with the designers and usually doesn't like to get involved
in the design process outside of approval of the final design.
Kyle mentioned
the contrast between Tracy and Kevin Garnett, who gets very involved in
the design of his shoes and, having more of an old-school taste, has very
specific ideas as to what he wants in terms of style. Kyle thought that
Garnett's insistence on being involved in the whole process is perhaps
partly a result of his past endorsement experiences with Nike and And1,
each of which ended with some level of controversy.
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| Of
course we finally got around to discussing my T-Mac design. They were
most interested in the strap, and how I arrived at the idea. |
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After
lunch we made our way to the final stage of my visit to adidas Village,
the board room. The pleasant conversation over lunch led to a very relaxed
atmosphere there. The topics of conversation remained fairly wide-ranging,
though they now centered solely around me. They asked questions about
my family, my current job at Snap-on and life in Arkansas. One of the
guys mentioned that he and friend, both kayakers, had been scoping out
the many rivers that run through the Arkansas Ozark Mountains. I told
him that I had actually floated most of them myself and that Melanie had
my contact information should he ever decide to make the trip.
Of course
we finally got around to discussing my T-Mac design. They were most interested
in the strap, and how I arrived at the idea. I told them I really couldn't
name anything that inspired it other than my desire to do something that
I'd not seen in a sneaker before. That something ended up being a strap
that with an invisible end (not really invisible, but hidden under the
sole). I wished I'd had sketches to show them the process, but the fact
is, as I explained, "I sort of did the sketches in my head."
By the time I put it on paper, I already knew almost exactly how I wanted
it to look and traced the design in Illustrator right over the scanned
pencil sketch. The only change I made during that process was to the plastic
shank plate on the lateral side, which I widened and gave 3 subtle stripes.
The word "clever" was used by one of the designers for my idea
for the 3 stripes on the medial side, one of which was on the shoe, and
the other two on the strap.
They knew
from previous conversations that I had a couple other designs I'd hand
sketched since my T-Mac design. They asked to see those, about which we
talked briefly. But my time was up. Melanie had warned earlier that our
schedule was very tight and would require some rush in order to make my
flight home. My only real disappointment that day was that I didn't get
to stay and for Zenith's presentation, as he had gotten to sit in on mine.
I thanked Todd and the rest of the guys for the great time I'd had, wished
Zen the best and expressed my regret for not being able to stay for his
presentation, and said good bye.
The first
leg of the prize was complete. I had still not met T-Mac. But I have since.
I'll share that story with you soon here at KicksGuide.
Again,
I'd like to offer many thanks to both KicksGuide, for making this possible,
and everyone at adidas who helped make my visit so memorable. I had a
blast.
RH |